The principle for correcting N deficiency is: rapid rescue via foliar feeding + durable recovery via root-zone feeding.
- Step 1 (rescue): Apply a nitrogen-containing foliar spray (urea at 0.3–0.5%) or a high-nitrogen foliar fertiliser directly to the leaves. Uptake is much faster than waiting for root absorption.
- Step 2 (recovery): Drench the root zone with a soluble NPK supplement, organic nitrogen, or a slow-release nitrogen fertiliser to maintain steady growth.
- Note: Never overdose nitrogen during the midday heat — it can scorch the leaves. Always apply in the early morning or late afternoon.
Recommended products
Below are three widely available and effective options:
- Dau Trau 501 (N-P-K 30-15-10) — for shoot and leaf flushes
- Description: A classic foliar fertiliser; the high nitrogen content (30%) greens up the foliage quickly and pushes strong new shoots.
- Dosage: 1–2 g per 1 L of water.
- Application: Spray evenly over the foliage or drench around the base.
- Frequency: Every 7–10 days until the canopy returns to a healthy green.
- Where to buy: Shopee — Dau Trau 501
- Bio Fish (organic fish-emulsion nitrogen)
- Description: Fish emulsion is an excellent organic nitrogen source for roses — rich in amino acids that not only green the foliage but also thicken the leaves and improve disease resistance.
- Dosage: 10 ml per 2 L of water.
- Application: Water into the root zone or apply as a foliar spray (note: fish emulsion has a distinctive smell).
- Frequency: Every 10–15 days.
- Where to buy: Lazada — Bio Fish fish-emulsion fertiliser
- Map Duy 30-10-10 ultra-fast germination foliar fertiliser
- Description: Fully soluble foliar feed for severely nutrient-starved roses struggling to break new growth.
- Dosage: 20 g per 16–20 L tank (about 1 g per litre).
- Application: Spray directly over the whole canopy.
- Frequency: Every 7 days during the treatment phase.
- Where to buy: Tiki — 30-10-10 foliar fertiliser
Expert tip: If the leaves are yellow but the veins remain green, the issue is more likely a micronutrient deficiency (iron or magnesium), not nitrogen. Always check the chlorosis pattern carefully before fertilising for best results.